After many hours of looking, thinking, looking and thinking some more, I’ve decided to cut the entire floor out and replace in one piece. Here are several pics of the removal of the front floor.
After checking and double checking everything, time to find put some power to the ignition for a light check. And unbelievably, all lights illuminated on first attempt.
Considering I unplugged the entire rear wiring harness, rewired a good portion of the engine compartment, it was truly a miracle that everything worked on first try.
Had a productive weekend. Received my order from JBugs on Friday, just in time for the weekend.
- Was disappointed(but not surprised) that the rear marker lights did not fasten to the bus as they should or intended. So ended up using plastic 1/4″ anchors to fasten the base to the bus and then used screws to fasten the marker light to the base.
- Purchased a new Duracell Group 36R battery. I must say the Walmart Everstart battery I purchased more than 10 years ago, did a great job for it’s lifetime but finally wouldn’t hold a charge.
- Finished reconnecting all of the rear engine and electrical wiring, with the exception of the blower motor. Don’t really need it right now to get her running, plus need to rewire some of it due to age and corrosion.
- Reconnected the starter wiring, installed new fuel line from the carb to the fuel filter but need to connect it this evening.
- Replaced the aluminum intake to head gaskets with fiber gaskets and tightened and torqued the intake and carb.
Prior to me dropping the set screw and starting this entire update process, I had picked up a set of complete insulation boards. They weren’t perfect, but I could at least use as a pattern. I used 1/8″ masonite(or hardboard) and traced out the pattern, cut everything out and then used a drill press and forstner bit to began the process of drilling all of the holes.
Sprayed them with semigloss black paint and never got to install them. I also scored a full set of the original insulation in super great shape. The plastic protectors had of course dry rotted, so purchased some clear trash bags, used the manufactured seams as much as possible. Then, trimmed to fit and used a lighter to melt the edges and press together to form a sealed package. Even saved the original VW papers and inserted into the insulation plastic(as seen in one of the pics)
Must say they turned out great. Should have taken some pics of the insulation prior to installing, but was too excited to get them installed.
The insulation boards have lasted more than 5 years in the garage with the Charleston humidity and still look the same as when I made them.
Pics to come.
After ordering and installing the new intake gaskets and silicone boots, I still have a leak and the carb is still acting the same…will start every time, but will not idle.
While installing the intake, I was able to torque all of the intake nuts to 13 lbs on each of the new ones and the old ones except for one. One of the old ones started feeling like it was pulling the stud out and the aluminum gasket looked crumbled.
So I loosened up the drivers side boots and removed the drivers side intake…to find that the one stud that wouldn’t tighten partially coming out. Also discovered hardly any threads are holding it in AND it was a step stud meaning someone before myself had done some work on it. Some mechanic really did a bad job on this engine.
I took the step stud out and cleaned the threads with a die and ran a tap in the hole just to clean any leftover metal.
Then I cleaned all the parts with alcohol to remove any grease and applied some Loctite Red Threadlocker stick, reinserted the stud and tightened it down as much as possible without stripping. Not much thread in the top of the hole but hopefully enough in the bottom for it to hold. I would drill it out and retap, but it has already been drilled out to accept the 10 mm stud. So I would have to go up another size. Going to let it sit overnight and then we’ll try and reinstall the manifold to see if we can get a good seal.
Then I’ll have to address the carb issue. I may try to pick up a spare Weber from someone just to have for troubleshooting. Hate to spend to much on it, as I have the original duals but haven’t had the time to rebuild the second one yet.
Started looking today for the needed aluminum intake manifold gaskets (021-129-707D-4) and silicone intake boots (113129729BSI). I had ordered intake boots recently but they were black and from what I understand the black boots are made of urethane and not silicone. Therefore, are not as heat resistant as the silicone. So, my search for the best price and shipping begins.
Finally have made some progress…at least I hope so. Past couple of weekends I’ve had a friend over to help me with retapping the intake holes on the heads for the new studs. Finished installing them today, and also reinserted another stud where the previous owner was using a bolt. So, we’ll give it 24 hours or so and then we’ll reinstall the intake …very carefully. And hope for the best.
This has been a rough week in regards to the rebuilt(or cleaned up) Weber. I have installed it, and uninstalled it, and reinstalled it about 30 times in the past week and have had nothing but trouble. As I installed it the first time, I couldn’t get it to even start properly. Very sporadic results. After troubleshooting, removing and reinstalling, multiple times, I tried reinstalling the old float needle, readjusted the float, just everything I could possibly think of.
I finally thought of something in the middle of the night. The PO had installed gasket sealant along with the thicker than average gasket between the manifold and the carb. Why? Because I took the carb off and found that the bottom of the carb was warped. So, I had some 180 DA sandpaper and attached it to a piece of straight sheetmetal and set the base of the carb on it and started to slide it back and forth to attempt to remove some of the warpage. After about 10 minutes, I could see all of the low places on the carb were now gone. Then reinstalled the carb and the bus actually started very consistently and still does. The warpage was causing a vacuum leak.
Now, the only problem is that it WILL NOT idle. I must continue giving it gas to keep it running. I have removed the idle screw, recleaned it, and blown compressed air with no change in idle. Also, removed the jets and cleaned and blown out also. Still nothing. I am out of ideas.
After having some problems after I connected the charcoal canister to the carb, I decided to take the carb out and clean it. So one thing leads to another and decided to go ahead and take out the manifold and give it a good cleaning, new paint, and went ahead and rebuilt the carb. After shopping several local auto parts stores, decided to go with the Autozone kit for around $20.00. Also, started to clean the engine up some from the years of muck and grime.
I really wanted to take the engine tins out and sand down and paint, but decided to draw the line at leaving them in. Still debating to finish cleaning up the area and maybe spraying them black. Too much trouble at this point to remove them without removing other things as well. A few pics of the carb prior to rebuilding. The strainer was corroded terribly. I’m removing it for now, until I can find a replacement. It’s a wonder that fuel was even getting through the carb.