Frustration level is gone…at least for now. ;-)

Well, nothing but good news.

After discussing my issues with several Samba members, they insisted my problem was a vacuum leak problem. I couldn’t understand it, as I had replaced the distributor vacuum hose, made sure the base of the carb was flat, sealed the carb to the manifold, replaced the silicone boots.

Starting thinking about what had NOT changed over the course of the problem and the only think I could think of was the brake booster hose. So, I proceeded to remove the distributor vacuum hose and the brake booster hose and plug them. Low and behold the bus cranked and idled. Unbelievable. So I went back and reinstalled the distributor hose and it still idled. Reinstalled the brake booster hose and the problem arose again.

The brake booster hose is the only one in the engine compartment I hadn’t changed out yet and it was looking rough around the firewall. Replacement hose was a little difficult to find but found a local supplier for Gates Rubber – Power Brake Vacuum HosePart # 27233. It was 15/32″ and 3 feet long. Luckily they had two in stock as it takes 3 feet from the hard brake booster line into the engine compartment and connect to the check valve and then an extra foot to go to the carb. I also removed the check valve, cleaned it up and reinstalled, BUT TAKE NOTE. In this case, the Bentley manual is INCORRECT.

I’m not sure if the brake booster check valve is original, it appears to be but no guarantees. According to the Bentley, the arrow should face the brake booster. However, in this case, the check valve is clearly marked with the word “MOTOR” with an arrow. The arrow must face the carb. This allows air to flow towards the carb but not towards the brake booster, in case the engine were to backfire through the carb,it will stop the air flow and ruin the brake booster.

So, we are now on the road again and I have driven her around a little and she seems to be doing much, much better. I’m still working on tweaking the carb and need to adjust the choke some. Hope to do that a little more this weekend.

Retapping the head

After discovering the stripped 10mm stud, I had to search for another answer. I debated and debated and measured and remeasured on what to do. As much as I read, I kept hearing to stay away from a helicoil, as  helicoil is nothing but a spring really, and the heat from the head and engine can cause it to expand and contract, which is NOT what you want from a head stud.

So, it’s off to find another solution. After more and more reading, I decided to try a Time-sert kit. I didn’t really have anything to lose(except for about $75.00) but I wanted to avoid having to remove the engine and having the head repaired.

Here is a link to their metric kits: .

According to the Time-sert website, the Fastenal Company is supposed to carry the kits. However, after visiting the store and calling, they knew nothing about Time-sert or their kits.

So, off to the web I go.

I found a company called Mechanics Tools and Bits on Amazon that sold their kits. I placed my order for the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.25 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1012 and received the shipment in just a few days. Great Transaction. Then I discovered I ordered the wrong kit. I should have ordered the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.50 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1015. I contacted Neal Hillegass from the company and he gladly exchanged the product, no questions asked. Of course, I had to cover the shipping, but there was a price difference  and he’s response “just send it back” and we’ll take care of it.

A couple more days and I had the correct kit. However, I ordered the 14.0mm inserts as that’s what it appeared I needed based on the stud. But after getting the kit, I realized the next size – 17.0mm -would be better suited for the job. Luckily, the inserts are relatively inexpensive, so I contacted Neal again and purchased the 5 of the 17.0mm( a few extra just for future usage if needed, hopefully not) for less than $10.00.

Got everything I needed now to start the job and there was nothing to it. Had it installed in about an hour. First, you drill out the hole, retap it for the insert, use another included specialized drill bit for cutting a small circle around the hole to flush mount the insert, then another tool to install the insert.

And that’s it. the stud is installed, torqued at 13 lbs/in and is not going anywhere. It actually feels more snug with no wiggle than the 10mm studs I had to retap on the other side. The intakes are installed and everything seems snug and secure.