With a little additional elbow grease, I was finally able to remove the engine tin. It was a battle, but I won out this time. I removed the cylinder tins, the engine surrounds, and the front tin, a few pieces underneath. I did have to unplug the wires from the alternator to the voltage regulator, however, I marked EVERYTHING to make sure I reinstalled correctly. More time spent now will save time on the backend… and frustration. Here is a pic of the tins removed and unstripped:
Since removing, I’ve now spent hours stripping with paint stripper, wire wheels and sandpaper. Yes, I could have had it sandblasted, however, this is a great stress reliever. I love working in the garage, whatever the task.
I chose to only spray paint the engine tin for now and not have it powder coated. I’m planning on building a second engine and will get the engine tin powder coated when that happens. Didn’t want to powder coat now and then end up scratching it.
I ended up using Dupli-Color Black Hot Rod Sandable Primer DAP1698 and then several final coats of DupliColor Ford Semi-Gloss Black DE1635. I wanted to use semi-gloss so as not to show grease smudges, etc. The main goal is not show qulity at this time, but just to try and get everything looking better.
What started out to being a one hour job, turned into six.
I recently picked up a digital dwell meter and was anxious to tweak my timing rather than only using a timing light.
I decided to go ahead and remove my points and check for pitting and clean everything up a bit. Not that it was that dirty, but never hurts to do some cleaning. I began to reinstall the points and DROPPED the set screw underneath the engine tin. ARGH!!!
Tried my magnet in the hole and could never find it which began my quest of trying to remove the drivers side engine tin. I thought while I’m removing the tin, I’ll go ahead and strip it and repaint it from the unusual candy apple red color obviously painted by a previous owner. Ultimately, I’ll have it stripped and powdercoated, but for the time being a nice coat of semi-gloss black will be just fine.
To remove the engine tin, it was necessary for me to remove the carb and intake runners and also removed the distributor after making sure the engine was at TDC.
In an earlier post, I had written about having to repair one of the intake studs on the cylinder head. When I installed the intake, I was unable to tell if there was a left and right so I went ahead and installed which way I thought was correct. After installation, I noticed that the runners would not insert into the air distributor. So, I got them as close as possible and then used my silicone boots and there wasn’t any leakage.
I took this opportunity to reverse the intake sides to see if the fit was better. The fit is better, however, I noticed that the carb was now not sitting level. Thought at first it was just my eyes playing tricks. More on that later.
Back to the tins … I removed all of the tin screws on the left side and still was unable to remove the #3 and #4 cylinder tin. I was able to remove the two pieces from underneath and then the left outside piece. No matter how much I struggled it just would not come out and in fear of bending something I just gave up for now. I did read several posts about that once the screws are out, it should come out with some extra work. Went forward with stripping, priming and painting the engine tins I was able to remove. Finished those up last night. Not perfect but so much better than before. Pics to come. 😉
The good news is I was able to separate the engine tin far enough away to see the points set screw and was able to retrieve it. Then proceeded to installing the points again, and reinstalling the cylinder tin, carb and intake. I first tried setting my points gap to .016 inches, but that gave me a 39° degree dwell. For used points the dwell should be between 42° and 58°; for new, 42° and 50°. I went to .014 and was able to get the dwell to 52°. I then set the timing and have it set at 28° at 3000 RPM with the vacuum hose plugged.
The acceptable range for the point gap should be .016 to .020 inches.
After setting the dwell and the timing, it’s time to set the carburetor. With a progressive Weber, I used the initial settings provided by Redline. For some reason, the idle at times will vary from 500 rpm to 1100 rpm. I greased the distributor shaft and thought that would have helped that situation as I’ve run into that before. After several attempts and removing the mixture screw and spraying carb cleaner, I finally thought I had got it.
Took it out for a spin and it was actually running very well … except when I turned a tight corner to head home where it actually stalled out. Cranked it and ran fine, until I made another hard turn into the driveway and she died again.
My memory is not as good as it once was but surprisingly remembered about a post I had read on TheSamba website about someone’s carb not sitting level after reversing the intake runners incorrectly. Hmmm … ring a bell?
So, this weekend, I hope to remove it all again, try and remove my #3 and #4 cylinder tin and reverse my intake runners and see if I can pry the runners into the air distributor with some clamps. Then set everything back up again.
The good thing about all this struggle … practice makes perfect and I’ve never removed my distributor before and reinstalled.
What started out as a one hour job, turned into six hours and a hot, humid, sweat filled day. HOWEVER, a bad day in the garage, is better than a good day at work!
I’ll keep you posted.
Took a little time tonight to look at repairing my passengers side step. Several years ago, I purchased a pair of Klokkerholm step repair panels, however, I was a little surprised at the quality – metal thickness and the corners weren’t stamped but folded on top of each other. Luckily, it doesn’t look like I will need to repair the entire panel but can cut off the part I need and weld it in.
Check my pic below of the repair needed and then the Klokkerholm panel. The portion I will cut out is marked with a black Sharpie.
Really haven’t had much time to work on the bus lately, just been driving here when the weather is nice. I still haven’t applied the epoxy primer I purchased two years ago and it’s probably wasted. I have kept it inside to keep it from the heat. So we’ll see if it made it or not.
I have started sanding down the passenger’s side some to get it down to the factory paint.
I did spend some quality time with her this weekend and made some decent progress on cleaning up the passenger’s interior side door. The door panels are shot so decided to remove it and clean the dirt and grime up. I removed and saved the protective plastic so I could use it as a template when the time comes. In trying to clean, I started using 409, then Purple Stuff, but found WD-40 and a brush to do the best. Then I hit it with some rubbing compound in some areas to finish cleaning. I should have taken a before picture of the door as a whole, but you can tell the dirt and grime from the smaller shots.
Next step will be to clean up the interior of the door and lubricate everything.
I’ve been busy with life and haven’t had much time to work on the bus lately. I did have my coil go out on me, so ended up having to install a new one. During troubleshooting, went ahead and replaced the points and condenser also. I replaced them when I purchased the bus 7 years ago and really didn’t have very many miles on them, but replaced them anyway.
Good news was the points weren’t pitted.
Also, I recently was given a timing light so I decided now would be a great time to give it a shot. I’ve only set the timing statically and tweaked by ear previously so I was anxious to be able to nail the timing hoping to eliminate the slight hesitation I’ve had when shifting gears and starting from a standstill.
Was also given a tach/dwell meter but it didn’t work so well, so I ended up picking up a small tach to hook up in the engine compartment.
After doing some research and taking the advice of fellow bus owners, I decided the best way to time it would be with the vacuum hose disconnected, running at 2800-3000 RPM’s and set around 28 degrees BTDC.
I tried it and was really having some issues with it running. I would set it with the engine warmed up and then when cold, try to start it and the timing was off so bad I couldn’t get it to start. So I would set it statically to get it started again and then try it again. Then I decided maybe I needed to tweak the carb a little to try and get them both working together.
After further research and more advice, I decided to set it the same way BUT to run it at 3500 RPM’s instead. That was the trick. Timing was set at 28 degrees BTDC and was running much more like it should.
I’m running a Weber Progressive Carb and set the idle mixture screw 2 full turns out from the bottom and then set the idle speed screw 1 1/2 turns after the screw touches the stop lever. These were great instructions from the Weber website and is what I followed:
I then tweaked the carb just a little per the instructions and she seems to be running better than ever. Took her out for a spin and the hesitation is gone and ran smooth the entire time. Let her cool back down and then went back out to see how she would start when cold, and fired right up.
That’s it for now. Until next time…
I took a day off from work yesterday for one of my boys field trip, and other errands, and had a few minutes to spare so I ran over to Palmetto Paint Specialties Inc. in North Charleston and Morris set me up with some epoxy primer. It’s been a LOONGGG time since I’ve done any auto painting, so things have changed quite a bit.
Told him I needed a primer that I could work on the bus a section at a time, do any glazing I needed to, and then could leave it until I get ready to spray it with paint. It stays in the garage and is not really exposed to the elements but still wanted a good quality. Told him it’s not a show vehicle, but still want to do it right. He hooked me up with PPG’s EPX-900 Epoxy Primer in beige and EPX-901 hardener. Still not totally convinced I’m going with the original Pastel White for the final paint, as we may go for a two tone job with vw orange below the beltline and then white above. But if we go with all Pastel White, the beige primer should be fine. I’ve seen several vehicles with the beige primer and it really looks nice. A good color to worth with doing the body work.
Really looking forward to sanding down the paint chips, getting rid of the surface rust and getting it one color.
Also, started looking into what to do to solve my sliding door track problem. It’s not THAT bad really, but would be nice to have it where it works nice and smooth. The problem is the bottom of the track has a three inch rust through on it, thus the door roller hits the dent and sinks.
All of the surrounding metal including the outer sill, inner rocker and everything looks good. Really hate that I will have to remove the good outer rocker sill to get the track replaced, but that’s the breaks.
I did find out today that a friend of mine has purchased the late model bus outer sill from Gerson at Klassic Fab. So I was glad to hear that, as it has been very challenging to find VW Bus repair panels that are of good quality. Most I have found to be much thinner than the original and do not always fit correctly. Also, e-mailed Gerson to find out if I can purchase only the track from him instead of the entire inner rocker with the track. Hopefully, we’ll hear something soon.
You can check out my sliding door pictures:
Finally had some time to crawl under the bus and check things out. Started degreasing the area some and all of a sudden sparks are flying.
After getting the area cleaned up, a little more careful, I found that two of the wires had been rubbing together and were shorting out. So, wrapped a little electrical tape around it until I can address further, and see if that corrects the problem. I’ve driven around own a couple of weeks now, and it has started every time. Hopefully, that solves the problem.
I knew it was going to happen sooner or later.
I haven’t done too much lately, just been driving her around here and there. But over the past year, I’ve noticed a few times that when I turn the key, she wouldn’t start. Had power to everywhere – radio and lights work. Just no start. Turn the key off and the starter would kick in.
But not this time. I had just backed her out of the garage until the rest of the family came out to jump in and she would turn over, Tried it again – no luck. Tried for another 10 minutes and nothing. I haven;t had time with Hurricane Irene bearing down on the SouthEast coast, and cutting grass and normal family responsibilities to check on the situation. But my first thoughts were that the ignition switch was going out. I had replaced it a few months after I purchased the bus and pulled the steering column, painted everything, fixed the horn, etc. It was a real pain changing out the switch and had heard a few rumors where other bus owners had to replace the new cheap made switches.
I really didn’t want to hafta go through that again.
Fast forward to yesterday, and my son and I were headed to the beach for some beach combing after the hurricane (in my other vehicle). And it dawned on me, he had asked me about a specific sound whenever I had tried to start it that day. I told him that it was the fuel pump.
HEY wait a minute, if we heard the fuel pump(which we did), that means that it is not the ignition switch, so it must be the starter solenoid or the starter.
So, a sigh of relief comes over me. I’ll keep you posted on the progress.
Well, nothing but good news.
After discussing my issues with several Samba members, they insisted my problem was a vacuum leak problem. I couldn’t understand it, as I had replaced the distributor vacuum hose, made sure the base of the carb was flat, sealed the carb to the manifold, replaced the silicone boots.
Starting thinking about what had NOT changed over the course of the problem and the only think I could think of was the brake booster hose. So, I proceeded to remove the distributor vacuum hose and the brake booster hose and plug them. Low and behold the bus cranked and idled. Unbelievable. So I went back and reinstalled the distributor hose and it still idled. Reinstalled the brake booster hose and the problem arose again.
The brake booster hose is the only one in the engine compartment I hadn’t changed out yet and it was looking rough around the firewall. Replacement hose was a little difficult to find but found a local supplier for Gates Rubber – Power Brake Vacuum HosePart # 27233. It was 15/32″ and 3 feet long. Luckily they had two in stock as it takes 3 feet from the hard brake booster line into the engine compartment and connect to the check valve and then an extra foot to go to the carb. I also removed the check valve, cleaned it up and reinstalled, BUT TAKE NOTE. In this case, the Bentley manual is INCORRECT.
I’m not sure if the brake booster check valve is original, it appears to be but no guarantees. According to the Bentley, the arrow should face the brake booster. However, in this case, the check valve is clearly marked with the word “MOTOR” with an arrow. The arrow must face the carb. This allows air to flow towards the carb but not towards the brake booster, in case the engine were to backfire through the carb,it will stop the air flow and ruin the brake booster.
So, we are now on the road again and I have driven her around a little and she seems to be doing much, much better. I’m still working on tweaking the carb and need to adjust the choke some. Hope to do that a little more this weekend.