Retapping the head

After discovering the stripped 10mm stud, I had to search for another answer. I debated and debated and measured and remeasured on what to do. As much as I read, I kept hearing to stay away from a helicoil, as  helicoil is nothing but a spring really, and the heat from the head and engine can cause it to expand and contract, which is NOT what you want from a head stud.

So, it’s off to find another solution. After more and more reading, I decided to try a Time-sert kit. I didn’t really have anything to lose(except for about $75.00) but I wanted to avoid having to remove the engine and having the head repaired.

Here is a link to their metric kits: .

According to the Time-sert website, the Fastenal Company is supposed to carry the kits. However, after visiting the store and calling, they knew nothing about Time-sert or their kits.

So, off to the web I go.

I found a company called Mechanics Tools and Bits on Amazon that sold their kits. I placed my order for the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.25 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1012 and received the shipment in just a few days. Great Transaction. Then I discovered I ordered the wrong kit. I should have ordered the TIME-SERT M10 X 1.50 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1015. I contacted Neal Hillegass from the company and he gladly exchanged the product, no questions asked. Of course, I had to cover the shipping, but there was a price difference  and he’s response “just send it back” and we’ll take care of it.

A couple more days and I had the correct kit. However, I ordered the 14.0mm inserts as that’s what it appeared I needed based on the stud. But after getting the kit, I realized the next size – 17.0mm -would be better suited for the job. Luckily, the inserts are relatively inexpensive, so I contacted Neal again and purchased the 5 of the 17.0mm( a few extra just for future usage if needed, hopefully not) for less than $10.00.

Got everything I needed now to start the job and there was nothing to it. Had it installed in about an hour. First, you drill out the hole, retap it for the insert, use another included specialized drill bit for cutting a small circle around the hole to flush mount the insert, then another tool to install the insert.

And that’s it. the stud is installed, torqued at 13 lbs/in and is not going anywhere. It actually feels more snug with no wiggle than the 10mm studs I had to retap on the other side. The intakes are installed and everything seems snug and secure.

I have the studs

After spending nearly a month online, visiting local bolt supply warehouses, etc. trying to locate the needed 8mm-10mm step studs, I finally found some…at my local friend’s garage. Why I didn’t check their first, I don’t know. Although, I do know more about them now than previously.

The problem with ordering them online…it’s hard for me to justify spending $1.50 per stud, and having to pay $10.00 in shipping charges to get them. So, I finally have them. I also ordered this week a 10mm tap and drill set that hopefully will be here in the next few days.

Still working on a solution…

I haven’t had too much time to work on her lately, but am leaning toward the intake manifolds not being fastened snugly. When I removed the manifolds, it appears the previous owner’s mechanic must have had some issues, as instead of a stud, it had been replaced with a bolt, AND two of the studs were very loose. After attempting to tighten ever so slightly, they came out.

So, I’m in the process of locating some step studs from the standard 8mm to a 10mm. I’ll drill and retap the heads to accept the 10mm size, while leaving the 8mm for the intake.

It’s been busy, busy, busy

A lot has happened over the last week or so. I started reconnecting all of the gas vapor lines and charcoal canister, but had a time finding the correct metric size hoses. I could have used ASE sizes but still couldn’t find any 1/2″ hose for the breather. So, I dropped a local vw friend(Snoopy) an e-mail to see if he could recommend any import parts places in the Charleston area. He told me to give Ken a call in Summerville. I gave Ken a call and not only did he have the metric sizes, but also in the larger 13mm that I needed for the breather hose.

I headed up tp Summerville to pick the hose up and come to find out I knew Ken. Ken turned out to be Ken Irwin and owns Aircooled Automotive. Ken and I were charter members of he Lowcountry Volkswagen Club in Summerville back in the late 80’s. I had no idea he was still in the area, so we spent a little time catching up, bought my hose and was on my way.

Came home to hook everything up and I was loving how the correct hose sizes were installing with ease. Also stopped by Lowe’s to pick up a brass fitting to run the 13mm hose from the charcoal canister to the breather. Also, picked up a slide-on fastener for the canister strap. I get everything hooked up and crank her up…and she dies. Try it again and same thing. She’ll run for about 5 seconds on starting fluid and that is all. I unplug all of the vapor fuel lines and try again…same thing. Almost like she was getting any fuel.

After a day of scouring for more progressive carb info, I found the jets screws locations and removed them and gave a few shos of carb cleaner and compressed air. She started up…not perfect, but at least she would start and run a little longer. It appears that there must have been trash in the charcoal canister and when I fired her up, it blew it all into the carb.

I have now removed the carb, cleaned the exterior really good of the years oof grease and grime. Now, I will remove the idle screws and jet again and clean again. I’m debating on picking up a rebuild kit and go ahead and rebuild it while I have it out. I’m not planning on running it that long as I’m working on the new PDSIT’s I have for installation.

I PBblasted the intake nuts tonight, as I am going to remove the intake and clean everything up ontop of the engine, then reinstall with the clean carb.

Also, picked up a pair of little wheels for the engine lid rod that helps keep it open. Took about five minutes to install and now all is well…at least with the engine lid.