After ordering and installing the new intake gaskets and silicone boots, I still have a leak and the carb is still acting the same…will start every time, but will not idle.
While installing the intake, I was able to torque all of the intake nuts to 13 lbs on each of the new ones and the old ones except for one. One of the old ones started feeling like it was pulling the stud out and the aluminum gasket looked crumbled.
So I loosened up the drivers side boots and removed the drivers side intake…to find that the one stud that wouldn’t tighten partially coming out. Also discovered hardly any threads are holding it in AND it was a step stud meaning someone before myself had done some work on it. Some mechanic really did a bad job on this engine.
I took the step stud out and cleaned the threads with a die and ran a tap in the hole just to clean any leftover metal.
Then I cleaned all the parts with alcohol to remove any grease and applied some Loctite Red Threadlocker stick, reinserted the stud and tightened it down as much as possible without stripping. Not much thread in the top of the hole but hopefully enough in the bottom for it to hold. I would drill it out and retap, but it has already been drilled out to accept the 10 mm stud. So I would have to go up another size. Going to let it sit overnight and then we’ll try and reinstall the manifold to see if we can get a good seal.
Then I’ll have to address the carb issue. I may try to pick up a spare Weber from someone just to have for troubleshooting. Hate to spend to much on it, as I have the original duals but haven’t had the time to rebuild the second one yet.
Started looking today for the needed aluminum intake manifold gaskets (021-129-707D-4) and silicone intake boots (113129729BSI). I had ordered intake boots recently but they were black and from what I understand the black boots are made of urethane and not silicone. Therefore, are not as heat resistant as the silicone. So, my search for the best price and shipping begins.
Finally have made some progress…at least I hope so. Past couple of weekends I’ve had a friend over to help me with retapping the intake holes on the heads for the new studs. Finished installing them today, and also reinserted another stud where the previous owner was using a bolt. So, we’ll give it 24 hours or so and then we’ll reinstall the intake …very carefully. And hope for the best.
This has been a rough week in regards to the rebuilt(or cleaned up) Weber. I have installed it, and uninstalled it, and reinstalled it about 30 times in the past week and have had nothing but trouble. As I installed it the first time, I couldn’t get it to even start properly. Very sporadic results. After troubleshooting, removing and reinstalling, multiple times, I tried reinstalling the old float needle, readjusted the float, just everything I could possibly think of.
I finally thought of something in the middle of the night. The PO had installed gasket sealant along with the thicker than average gasket between the manifold and the carb. Why? Because I took the carb off and found that the bottom of the carb was warped. So, I had some 180 DA sandpaper and attached it to a piece of straight sheetmetal and set the base of the carb on it and started to slide it back and forth to attempt to remove some of the warpage. After about 10 minutes, I could see all of the low places on the carb were now gone. Then reinstalled the carb and the bus actually started very consistently and still does. The warpage was causing a vacuum leak.
Now, the only problem is that it WILL NOT idle. I must continue giving it gas to keep it running. I have removed the idle screw, recleaned it, and blown compressed air with no change in idle. Also, removed the jets and cleaned and blown out also. Still nothing. I am out of ideas.
After having some problems after I connected the charcoal canister to the carb, I decided to take the carb out and clean it. So one thing leads to another and decided to go ahead and take out the manifold and give it a good cleaning, new paint, and went ahead and rebuilt the carb. After shopping several local auto parts stores, decided to go with the Autozone kit for around $20.00. Also, started to clean the engine up some from the years of muck and grime.
I really wanted to take the engine tins out and sand down and paint, but decided to draw the line at leaving them in. Still debating to finish cleaning up the area and maybe spraying them black. Too much trouble at this point to remove them without removing other things as well. A few pics of the carb prior to rebuilding. The strainer was corroded terribly. I’m removing it for now, until I can find a replacement. It’s a wonder that fuel was even getting through the carb.
And things were going sooo good…
In preparation for an upcoming camping trip, I’ve been double timing it, trying to get the bus ready. I actually reconnected all of my wiring on Saturday and only had two small snafu’s, but was able to crank her up for the first time in an entire year and pulled her out of the garage. Rinsed her off, and cleaned up the garage a little and then backed her in again.,
After I had everything reconnected, I jumped in to crank and it wouldn’t turn over, power everywhere but no crank. Battery seemed to be charged enough but still no crank. Stuck the battery on the charger for about 15 minutes and then she fired right up after giving her a few pumps of gas. Couldn’t believe it.
Spent last night troubleshooting a dead taillight and marker light and turned out to be the fuse. Sanded down the engine hatch and have it almost ready to shoot some primer on it tonight so I can get it remounted.
Now, the bad news…I started reinstalling the rear bumper and the nut that is inside the frame popped loose. This is not a good situation as the ONLY way to get to it to reweld it back in is to undo part of the work I have been doing over the past year. I’m going to need to cut an access hole in the panel I just installed and recut the vertical support beam(that I just replaced) to get to the bolt.
I am so bummed. It would’t be so bad if I hadn;t had to basically make the piece of the skin to the right of the hatch that has the small access hole in it. I think I may try to find a fabrication shop to just make me a flat piece of metal with the hole in it and cut and patch it in. The problem is that the whole is PRESSED in and is not just drilled out.
Anyway…it’ll need to wait until after the camping trip…without a rear bumper.
I was able to pick up an interior mud flab from a fellow Samba member and received it yesterday. Didn’t waste anytime trimming it down and welding it in. Hopefully, will finish the welding and grinding it down tonight so I can move forward with puttin ght eoutside skin back on.
I’ve really made some good progress in the past 2 or 3 weeks.
1. Finished welding in and primering the repair sections on either side of the engine hatch
2. Trimmed the area for the replacement of the skin around the battery tray area
3. Trimmed the replacement skin around the battery tray area
4. Undercoated, primered and hole punched the valance below the engine hatch.
I actually started to weld in the valence but thought that I might should reinstall the engine hatch to make sure the lower gap is consistent around the edges. Sanded down the rear of the engine hatch to start prepping it. Might as well get it ready for some paint and to rehang it.
So the search for my hinges began. And after two days of searching…I finally found them. Stripped all the paint off last night and begain to primer. Hopefully will finish that up this evening.
Went through some paint decisions…it’s hard to find an auto paint shop that is open on Saturday. But found one locally that is and sells the Glasurit product line. For VW restorers, the Glasurit is the original manufacturer or the closest thing to the original. HOWEVER, I called this morning to get a quote for a quart and a gallon of L90D(PastellWeiss) and it was $150.00 for a quart and $500.00 for a gallon. Whew. Definitely won’t be going that route. I ant my Bus to look good, but it’s certainly not a show vehicle.
So, do a little more research and find that PPG also has the L90D paint chip and found a local PPG distributor. Only Bad – they aren’t open on Saturday’s and only open 9-5 M-F. But, at least I have found a distributor.
Hopefully, will be able to go by there tomorrow to pickup enough pain to do the engine compartment, the hinges, and some areas around the engine hatch.
Had a few extra hours on Saturday so I headed up to Orangeburg to a friend’s VW junkyard. Always enjoy going. Not a huge number of buses, but enough that I can usu find what I need, within reason. I needed the passenger’s side rear area of the rear wheel.
I purchased a panel new that I had hoped would work, but again, the sheetmeal was too thin and wasn’t close to fitting the original contours. So, I was able to get a good piece that goes from the rear wheelwell all the way to the taillight. I still need to trim out what’s left of the battery tray from the piece and have it sandblasted.
Now that I have what I need in regards to the rear, I should be able to start removing the necessary metal to install the new battery tray. At least I can dryfit the battery tray with the piece I just purchased to check the fit prior to installing.
I also was able to find one plug that fits in the small holes on each side of the rear view mirror. There was a second one but it was so brittle that it broke as I tried to remove. Checked out a few more buses for the front step areas and front floors. I think I found about 3 or 4 buses that I should be able to get to repair the area on my bus.
Through this whole process I have learned a valuable lesson. IF I’m able to find a bus to remove the original metal in good shape, I will certainly do that instead of using ordered repair panels.
Hello and welcome to my 1973 Volkswagen Westfalia restoration blog. It is my hope to provide information from other sources, as well as tasks and projects that I have accomplished that will help you with your Bus adventure.