After spending nearly a month online, visiting local bolt supply warehouses, etc. trying to locate the needed 8mm-10mm step studs, I finally found some…at my local friend’s garage. Why I didn’t check their first, I don’t know. Although, I do know more about them now than previously.
The problem with ordering them online…it’s hard for me to justify spending $1.50 per stud, and having to pay $10.00 in shipping charges to get them. So, I finally have them. I also ordered this week a 10mm tap and drill set that hopefully will be here in the next few days.
This has been a rough week in regards to the rebuilt(or cleaned up) Weber. I have installed it, and uninstalled it, and reinstalled it about 30 times in the past week and have had nothing but trouble. As I installed it the first time, I couldn’t get it to even start properly. Very sporadic results. After troubleshooting, removing and reinstalling, multiple times, I tried reinstalling the old float needle, readjusted the float, just everything I could possibly think of.
I finally thought of something in the middle of the night. The PO had installed gasket sealant along with the thicker than average gasket between the manifold and the carb. Why? Because I took the carb off and found that the bottom of the carb was warped. So, I had some 180 DA sandpaper and attached it to a piece of straight sheetmetal and set the base of the carb on it and started to slide it back and forth to attempt to remove some of the warpage. After about 10 minutes, I could see all of the low places on the carb were now gone. Then reinstalled the carb and the bus actually started very consistently and still does. The warpage was causing a vacuum leak.
Now, the only problem is that it WILL NOT idle. I must continue giving it gas to keep it running. I have removed the idle screw, recleaned it, and blown compressed air with no change in idle. Also, removed the jets and cleaned and blown out also. Still nothing. I am out of ideas.
After having some problems after I connected the charcoal canister to the carb, I decided to take the carb out and clean it. So one thing leads to another and decided to go ahead and take out the manifold and give it a good cleaning, new paint, and went ahead and rebuilt the carb. After shopping several local auto parts stores, decided to go with the Autozone kit for around $20.00. Also, started to clean the engine up some from the years of muck and grime.
I really wanted to take the engine tins out and sand down and paint, but decided to draw the line at leaving them in. Still debating to finish cleaning up the area and maybe spraying them black. Too much trouble at this point to remove them without removing other things as well. A few pics of the carb prior to rebuilding. The strainer was corroded terribly. I’m removing it for now, until I can find a replacement. It’s a wonder that fuel was even getting through the carb.
A lot has happened over the last week or so. I started reconnecting all of the gas vapor lines and charcoal canister, but had a time finding the correct metric size hoses. I could have used ASE sizes but still couldn’t find any 1/2″ hose for the breather. So, I dropped a local vw friend(Snoopy) an e-mail to see if he could recommend any import parts places in the Charleston area. He told me to give Ken a call in Summerville. I gave Ken a call and not only did he have the metric sizes, but also in the larger 13mm that I needed for the breather hose.
I headed up tp Summerville to pick the hose up and come to find out I knew Ken. Ken turned out to be Ken Irwin and owns Aircooled Automotive. Ken and I were charter members of he Lowcountry Volkswagen Club in Summerville back in the late 80’s. I had no idea he was still in the area, so we spent a little time catching up, bought my hose and was on my way.
Came home to hook everything up and I was loving how the correct hose sizes were installing with ease. Also stopped by Lowe’s to pick up a brass fitting to run the 13mm hose from the charcoal canister to the breather. Also, picked up a slide-on fastener for the canister strap. I get everything hooked up and crank her up…and she dies. Try it again and same thing. She’ll run for about 5 seconds on starting fluid and that is all. I unplug all of the vapor fuel lines and try again…same thing. Almost like she was getting any fuel.
After a day of scouring for more progressive carb info, I found the jets screws locations and removed them and gave a few shos of carb cleaner and compressed air. She started up…not perfect, but at least she would start and run a little longer. It appears that there must have been trash in the charcoal canister and when I fired her up, it blew it all into the carb.
I have now removed the carb, cleaned the exterior really good of the years oof grease and grime. Now, I will remove the idle screws and jet again and clean again. I’m debating on picking up a rebuild kit and go ahead and rebuild it while I have it out. I’m not planning on running it that long as I’m working on the new PDSIT’s I have for installation.
I PBblasted the intake nuts tonight, as I am going to remove the intake and clean everything up ontop of the engine, then reinstall with the clean carb.
Also, picked up a pair of little wheels for the engine lid rod that helps keep it open. Took about five minutes to install and now all is well…at least with the engine lid.
And things were going sooo good…
In preparation for an upcoming camping trip, I’ve been double timing it, trying to get the bus ready. I actually reconnected all of my wiring on Saturday and only had two small snafu’s, but was able to crank her up for the first time in an entire year and pulled her out of the garage. Rinsed her off, and cleaned up the garage a little and then backed her in again.,
After I had everything reconnected, I jumped in to crank and it wouldn’t turn over, power everywhere but no crank. Battery seemed to be charged enough but still no crank. Stuck the battery on the charger for about 15 minutes and then she fired right up after giving her a few pumps of gas. Couldn’t believe it.
Spent last night troubleshooting a dead taillight and marker light and turned out to be the fuse. Sanded down the engine hatch and have it almost ready to shoot some primer on it tonight so I can get it remounted.
Now, the bad news…I started reinstalling the rear bumper and the nut that is inside the frame popped loose. This is not a good situation as the ONLY way to get to it to reweld it back in is to undo part of the work I have been doing over the past year. I’m going to need to cut an access hole in the panel I just installed and recut the vertical support beam(that I just replaced) to get to the bolt.
I am so bummed. It would’t be so bad if I hadn;t had to basically make the piece of the skin to the right of the hatch that has the small access hole in it. I think I may try to find a fabrication shop to just make me a flat piece of metal with the hole in it and cut and patch it in. The problem is that the whole is PRESSED in and is not just drilled out.
Anyway…it’ll need to wait until after the camping trip…without a rear bumper.
Had a successful weekend on the bus. Just wish I had more time. Camping trip in 2 weeks and I don’t think the Bus is going to be ready. May hafta venture out without her this time.
I was able to leave work a few minutes early on Friday to stop by a new found body supply shop before closing time at 5:00pm. Very nice staff was really helpful and not just sell you anything.
Was able to finish up the installation of the rear below the engine panel. It was a bear to get welded in. Not sure why, but half of my welds wouldn’t stick. I cleaned it, redrilled the holes and after 3 or 4 attempts, I was finally able to complete it. Finished wrapping the crimps and primered everything .
Also was able to seam seal the battery tray in last night. Used 3M’s Fast ‘n Firm Seam Sealer and was able to use a basic caulking gun to apply. I did clean the area thoroughly of all rust and then with prepsol prior to application. My only concern was trying to get a full tube of sealer with the gun in the small area, but somehow managed with no major setbacks. The sealer skinned over in about 20 minutes and was easy to clean up any extra that may have dripped. Went back this morning to check and it was still soft so hopefully after 24 hours it will be ready for some primer.
Regarding this posts title, I cannot stand welding while lying down. There is not enough room to use my helmet, so had to resort to my face shield, holding the light AND trying to weld at the same time. Certainly couldn’t get a full bead going, but was able to tack weld it enough to hold it securely. Hope tonight maybe to grind down the welds and apply seam sealer to underneath and give it another 24 hours before applying undercoating.
Also, BEWARE and MAKE SURE to apply this particular seam sealer in well ventilated area. I thought mine was ventilated enough with the fan going and open door, and it doesn’t appear to smell that strong, but after finishing the job, I felt like the fumes were still in my lungs for a few hours.
A few pics of the progress:
I completed welding the back corner last night and now we move on to smoothing out the welds. The only place that hasn’t matched up perfectly was the inside of the lip. Even though the skin was taken from another ’73, they seem to be different. My bus is an early ’73, and the donor bus could be a late ’73, possibly explaining the difference, but still a little surprised of the difference.
Last evening, I finished up the welding, a few coats of primer, and undercoated.
Tonight, I was able to spot welded it in, so the next step will be to finish up the welding. I taped up the interior side of the engine hatch, and started to spray a little primer in the access holes. Plan on spraying in undercoating to help with deadening the sound a little. I know I won.t be able to coat the entire inside, but a little coverage should help.